Trunk Hose Pattern, Take Two
I went back to a more basic fitted pattern for the trunk hose foundation, and I finally got it fitting right. I had to add a little in the center back to give enough room to sit comfortably, but it'll all be hidden in the end. I attached the canions and finished the waistband. I put in enough eyelets on the waistband to try it on, and it all seems to work. The next step is to construct the poofy bits. I've been thinking about how to get the right shape, and right now I'm planning to construct it like a cartridge pleated skirt, then pleat it back in to the bottom again. What I'm trying to avoid is the vague round shape I've gotten before. I want that smooth conical line. I'm hoping that adding some wool or batting to the cartridge pleats at the top will get it to stick out the way I want. I'll have to see how the bottom hangs before I decide exactly what to do on that end. I'm thinking that I'll probably have to do darts of some sort, and perhaps some additional stiffening.
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Underpinnings
I've been working on a new shirt and hand ruffs for this weekend, though of course they're also relevant to this project. The hand ruffs didn't turn out quite as nice as I wanted. The same technique that makes a nice full ruff for the neck doesn't quite work for the tighter circle of a wrist. I ended up making them half as deep, and they're really pretty understated. Since they're all separate (and currently tacked onto the Zebra Suit), I can replace them as I come up with better techniques. Back to work on the trunk hose next week!
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Trunk Hose Patterning
I started patterning the trunk hose. I tried following one of the patterns in Patterns of Fashion, but it really just wasn't fitting right. I got the pattern for the canions fitting great; they're nice and snug and don't shift or gap when I bend my knee. Now I just have to build the rest of the foundation so they stay up when I'm standing and still let me sit down. I had intended to cut the canions on the bias to give more stretch, but I forgot about it when I started cutting. Fortunately, they seem to work just fine on the straight. I may cut a slit in the side and install hooks and eyes to make it a little easier to get in and out. I may use the pattern for the pluderhosen foundation if I can't get anything else to work, but hopefully I'll be able to work something out.
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Finished Doublet
The buttons are on, the lacing strip is trimmed down, and the doublet is done! I'm dragging my feet on starting the trunk hose, but hopefully I'll be able to get started on them tonight. I also need to make a new shirt and hand ruffs. I was hoping to have the whole outfit done for the event next week, but I'm not going to rush it. I've got other clothes to wear. In fact, if it's not done yet it'll give me something to work on while I'm there.
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Pictures!
Pictures, as promised. I used an old pair of black venetians for the pictures, just to get the right color combination.
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Lacing Strip And Buttons
The sleeve buttons and lacing strip are done. The lacing strip is made of the black linen interlined with one layer of wool, with 46 eyelets spaced an inch apart. It took all day to put in all the eyelets, but the flexibility of being able to attach any pants I want regardless of where their lacing holes are placed is worth the effort. Actually, once I attached the strip to the doublet it seems that I have a couple more holes than I actually need. I hate to cut them off, but I guess I'll have to. I tested the whole system with an old pair of trunk hose, and it fit beautifully. To my surprise, I was able to reach the back of my head without doing any harm to myself. All that's left to do now on the doublet itself is to make 24 more buttons. I also have to make a new pair of hand ruffs, but that shouldn't be too much work. I'm starting to feel a little burned out, so I think I'll take the rest of the weekend off. I won't stay away too long though; I think I've finally rebuilt the callus on my finger that makes sewing so much easier. Maybe I'll put up pictures tomorrow.
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Finished Sleeves
I decided not to redo the left shoulder. It's not really all that bad. I attached the right sleeve and that shoulder wing doesn't stick up as much. As soon as I find the other set of batteries for the camera I'll put up some new pictures. Now that both sleeves are attached it looks like I still can't put my arms up over my head. I'm thinking that I'm not really supposed to be able to. At least I can reach back and forth without binding. After I finish putting buttons on the sleeves I may start working on the lacing strip. I was planning to save it for Monday when I'm going to be teaching my eyelet class, but I reckon I'll still have a few left to do by then. I'll probably burn out halfway through. Next I think I'll start on the foundation of the trunk hose. A bonus of the curved sleeve pattern is that the lower part of the sleeve ends up on the bias, which makes it easy to fit. The sleeves ride up a little bit when I straighten my arms, but I think the ruffs will keep my wrists from looking naked.
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Sleeves
I spent all night tinkering with my sleeve pattern. I'm trying to get it close without being too tight, which required a few attempts. Fortunately I allowed myself more seam allowance than I thought I'd need. I should really make the new shirt I'm planning to wear with this doublet so I can get a more accurate feel for it, or at least put on one of my old shirts. Maybe tomorrow. It looks like I'll have good range of motion front to back, but I don't think I'll be able to raise my arms all the way up without the sides pulling up. I don't know how critical that's going to be. I can touch the top of my head, which is probably good enough, but I think I'm going to try putting a fish-shaped gusset under the sleeve to see if I can get a couple more inches of reach without making it bunch under the arms. The shoulder wings may get in the way as well, I just don't know. Aside from that the sleeve looks pretty good. It's going to have quite a few buttons on it to get it nice and snug to the wrist. It's also curved, with a seam along the back edge from the elbow to the wrist. It bunches at the elbow when my arm is straight, and there's a litle bit of pull across the inside of the elbow, but when my arm is bent (which should be most of the time) It lays nice and flat. I can also fully flex my arm without the sleeve binding.
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Shoulder Wings
I put the left sleeve and shoulder wing on last night. Unfortunately, the wing isn't laying quite right. It's pointy on top, where it should be round. I don't want to take it apart, but I think I should. Hopefully just reshaping the curved edge of the wing will make it look right.
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A Rising Waistline
I raised the center back three inches and put the rest of the tabs on. It looks about right, I think, escpecially when I put a belt on. It looks a little funny without the right pants on, but that will be rectified soon enough. Next I'll either start on the sleeves and shoulder wings or put on the lacing strip. If I put on the sleeves, it'll look more like a doublet, but if I put on the lacing strip I'll be able to try it on with some of the trunk hose and venetians I have around to see how it'll look with pants. Decisions, decisions!
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